Instead of the ceiling and canvas
Looking through the old books, I found a recommendation to lay inter-frame spaces with slats 9X12X470 mm in size. I used this technique on my apiary and was very pleased with them. Reiki for a nest I make in the size 9X12X470 mm, for shops – 12X16X470 mm.
Once a year (in free winter time) I clean them of wax and propolis, that is, when I prepare the frame for spring.
During the spring audit I do the following. I clean the space from the edge of the nest from the rubbish and spam, I move all the frames there, clean the bottom where the bees were, and move the entire nest to the old place. To determine the status of the family, the presence of the uterus, the amount of fodder reserves, remove the rod from the middle of the nest, push the nest and take out one frame. I spend four minutes on the audit of the family. In this case, the thermal mode of the socket is broken only in the area of the removed frame, since the other streets are closed by racks. When used in a time-free period, it is easy to avoid theft, since only one street is open. I do not need dividers for store frames. The reiki themselves now fulfill their role.
For the winter, I put the slats on the rib (9 mm). Since the frames have permanent dividers, and the width of the street is 12 mm, crevices are formed, which contribute to the ventilation of the nest. The upper warming is shifted aside at the rate of one centimeter per frame, that is, if the family is on the eight frames in winter, completely surrounded by bees, then I shift the insulation by 8 cm. In my locality, I do this from the second half of January, when in families there is brood and frosts. After March 15, the reiki turn to 12 cm, and they completely cover the streets, nest heat. At my method of wintering, there is never a trace of dampness in the nest and a large podromore. The upper duct of 20 mm in diameter is barred with a net, the
When using beaks, bees are less worried, they are very convenient to feed. A trough measuring 100X150 or 120X 170 mm is knocked out of planches 6-8 in thickness, 25 mm high. Bottom of it I make from I kapron grid with cells 1X1 mm, which I nail brusochkami 8X8 mm. Marl should not be used, as the bees gnaw it. In advance I cut the sown honey into pieces according to the size of the feeder and put them into it.
I open the hive, from the middle street of the nest I take out a long rake, and I insert two shortened ones with crossbars. The distance between the ends of the shortened rails is 10-20 mm less than the length of the feeder. On top of the trough cover with a plastic film (200X300 mm), and then a canvas. Under the influence of heat, which comes from the nest, honey gradually melts, and the bees take it. If I use heavily planted honey, then after two or three days I slightly press it into the bottom of the feeder.
At the end of feeding I turn it upside down. Bees themselves clean the feeder well of the remnants of honey and wax. In cold weather, the feed can be used as a drinking bowl. For this, I put a piece of foam (sponge) soaked in water on the bottom. In the summer and when traveling on both sides of the nest I put ventilating strips, that is, on the side of diaphragms for the entire width of the hive.
(1 votes, average: 5.00 out of 5)Instead of the ceiling and canvas