Framing frames
Beehive frames should be piled with whole sheets of artificial wax. With this nastavity, the work of the bees is facilitated and accelerated; a smaller number of bees are occupied by the construction of honeycombs, therefore, more bees can go for nectar and pollen, resulting in a greater honey harvest; usually honeycombs with bee cells are built on an artificial honeycomb, whereas when framed by a strip a frame can be completed with drone cells.
Artificial wax should always be attached to the frame with a thin steel tinned wire. On the wire the wax is not stretched.
The wire can be stretched vertically or horizontally. Looking at the width of the frame, stretch more or less wire. On ordinary frames, it is customary to pull a wire of 5 rows vertically or 4 horizontally.
The wire is passed through the holes pierced in the rulers of the frame. The holes are punctured with an awl or drilled by a drill, but they are better and much faster punch through a punch. One of the best designs of a multichannel hole punch that penetrates at once 8 holes (for four wires) is shown in Fig.
After piercing holes near the last hole, half the carnations are driven into, onto which the end of the wire is wound, after which this stud is driven to the end. Then draw the wire through the punctured holes of the bars parallel to the upper and lower bars of the frames. Now it remains to tighten the wire and fix its end. To stretch the first wire, you need to pull the second, then pull the third, why stretches the second, and so on.
After this, take the pliers of the end of the wire and, pulling it, tighten it for the carnation immediately knocked down. Do not pull the wire diagonally or in the form of letters M, X.
Half-frames can be welded without wires.
Preliminary preparation of the hive frames to the extrusion, namely piercing the holes in their slats, fixing one end of the wire
To frame the frame, except for the punch and thin tinned wire, you need more spurs, rollers for attaching wax and a board for naswash.
The spur to push the wires into the wax is a serrated or, more rarely, smooth wheel with a groove in the middle of the rim or cuts along the ends of the teeth. The wheel is attached to the handle. Due to the groove or cuts, the wheel does not jump off the wire when the wires are rolled up to the wax.
The disadvantage of the spur is that, partially piercing the honeycomb leaf, the spur makes it less durable. Therefore, many beekeepers successfully manage without it, pushing the wire into the wax with a chisel, the sharp end of the knife, and so on.
The Ogalyuk rink is used to attach wax to the top of the frame. Using the adjuster nut, it is installed so that the wheel reaches the middle of the bar. The superheated rink melts the wax, so it is best to heat it in hot water. With a hot roller, the wax is quickly glued. This is done like this: the frame is placed on the top bar and, attaching a wax to it, rolls the roller, and then fold the rolled sheet into the frame. You can and do not attach an artificial wax to the upper frame bar: bees can attach it themselves. It is important only that the sheet of an artificial honeycomb does not bend, while its bees are attached.
Soldering wires to the wax is sometimes produced by an electric current, passing it through a wire. The wire, when heated, melts the wax and turns out to be soldered when the current is turned off. Only it is necessary to regulate the current by means of a transformer or a rheostat so that the wire is not heated, but only heated to a certain limit.
The underside of the upper frame of the frame, preferably before waxing, is well waxed.
Framing frames with the help of a spur, a rink and a board is usually performed as follows. Having prepared a workplace, an artificial wax and an inventory for framing the frames, a board for nasovshchivaniya (the so-called “templar”) is moistened with water.
Then a sheet of an artificial honeycomb is placed on the indicated board. The size of the sheet of an artificial honeycomb should be such that after packing it to the upper bar, there are gaps: between the edges of the honeycomb and the side slats 2-3mm, and the gap between the bottom edge of the sheet and the lower frame of the frame is 5-10mm.
Fig. Attach an artificial honeycomb to the wire of the frame using a spur.
The top edge of the honeycomb leaf, about 1 cm, is bent at right angles. On top of the wax put a frame with stretched wires so that the upper bent edge of the wax as closely as possible to the upper border of the frame, somewhat “adhered” to it. Then they “weld” the wax to the wires. To do this, take a slightly heated spur and, placing it on a wire, lead it back and forth, slightly pressing. Wire from this a little press into the wax and welded to it melted from the hot spur wax. Having removed the frame with the artificial wax from the “curtain”, roll the folded edge of the wax sheet to the upper frame bar using a roller.
It should be noted that beekeeping techniques used by beekeepers are similar in basic features, differ significantly in details. So, sometimes the upper edge of the wax sheet does not bend, and therefore, and do not roll, but only attach close to the upper frame of the frame and “pour” the hot (melted) wax or “glue” 3-4 small strips, somewhat change the order of work, e.
In the framework where it is possible, it is necessary to put the waxes correctly, just as the bees themselves build, that is, the lateral parallel sides of the cells must be vertical.
Fig. Attach an artificial honeycomb to the upper frame bar with a roller.
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