Combating wax moths by popular methods
Salt
The wax moth, if not taken, can destroy the entire cellular stock. So, after you have pumped out the honey and released a significant number of honeycombs, dry them. Take a conventional sprayer OPS-5, which our industry produces to combat pests, in particular the Colorado beetle, fill it with a saturated solution of salt and sprinkle honeycomb from both sides. After the water evaporates and the honeycombs are covered with light, dry salt, shake each of them, excess salt will cover up, hide them. In such “salty” honeycomb moths will not start, and in the spring, when honeycomb should be placed in the hives, sprinkle them with water and then do not give the bees salted water (5 g per liter of water). Such an event completely preserves the honeycomb, ensures the need of the bee family in salt. But the wire in the framework should be stainless or chrome plated, otherwise it will rust. In such a productive way, one hour to a thousand frames can be processed.
Vinegar
I keep the honeycomb in empty hives, tightly closing the tapholes with bolts of tin or paper stoppers. At the bottom of the hive put a vessel with a capacity of 50-100 milliliters, I pour acetic acid from it, place it near the frame and close the hive. On its ceiling, it is desirable to put a plastic film to slow the rate of release of vapors. On the hive I spend at a time 4-5 tablespoons of acid. Instead, you can use vinegar essence or ordinary vinegar, spending it more. Sometimes I just water the honeycomb with acetic acid and they are excellent. Since the honeycomb is disinfected, many pathogens perish.
Any acid has no harmful effects on bees, since it evaporates rapidly. Before putting honeycombs to bees, it is advisable to ventilate them for one or two hours. Bees such honeycomb with a willingness to accept. I process honeycombs from May to September every 10 days.
Immortelle sandy (immortelle)
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Screws
It is best to keep the honeycomb in tightly closed boxes (hull casings, etc.). To prevent the introduction into the capacity of moths in the egg or caterpillar stage, the honeycomb is disinfected by placing formalin in the box at a rate of 50 g per 1 cubic meter of volume. Good results are obtained by pollination of honeycombs with ectobacterin, which does not harm bees and humans, but it has a detrimental effect on the moth.
You can save cells open in drafts, placing them one from the other at a distance. Most beekeepers keep honeycomb in the attic, where they are perfectly ventilated. In the draft, the moth does not damage the honeycomb and they can be left for the winter, separating those that are with the Perga. The latter are covered with powdered sugar and stored at a plus temperature, preferably below 10 њ C, because under such conditions the mole is already dying.
Water
There are two ways to store honeycombs without bees.
First. During the day, soak the honeycombs in water (preferably rain or river), pump it out on a honey extractor and dry it in the air. Moles will not be, because it damages the honeycombs in which there was already brood.
Second. Dry honeycomb can be preserved as a whole with a polyethylene, tightly knotted sack. This method is simpler, but the first is profitable, since honeycombs are stored in the air, and there is no ventilation in the bag.
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